Apr
27
You love your dog - who doesn’t. But if your dog does have a spot of flatulence you’ll know it can be embarrassing as well as rather smelly! Read on for information and tips that can help to reduce your dog’s flatulence.
All dogs can have a touch of excessive wind from time to time. Just like us humans do. And when a dog has wind, he gets rid of it in the same way us humans do. Yes - dogs get flatulence and (in the politest possible way) blow it out their ass or fart to relieve themselves of it. Again - just like us humans do.
When your beloved dog does suffer from a touch of flatulence you’ll be sure to know about it not only by the sound of that “fart” but also by the unmistakable aroma. Oh boy, it stinks! While you may be able to handle that while out for a walk with your pooch or by a quick blast of air freshener at home, your dog’s flatulence can be a touch embarrassing if it happens when you’re with friends, in the car and similar. Even if it’s not embarrassing or your comfortable with it, your dog may not be.
There are things you can do to ease your dog’s flatulence and make your prized pet healthier and happier. What follows is general help and advice relating to dog flatulence for informational purposes. If and you are in any doubt about your dog’s health then please consider consulting your vet.
Flatulence is basically the accumulation of gas in the gastrointestinal tract. The breakdown of bacteria during normal digestion when can cause this naturally. Any dog can suffer from it do differing degrees - some may get excessive flatulence. If your dog’s flatulence does become prolonged or excessive, consult your vet.
Some common causes of dog flatulence are food or diet related. For example swallowing air through “wolfing” down food. Eating too fast in other words.
There’s more than one way to skin a cat - I mean there’s more than one way to help your dog out if he has a bit of a wind problem.
Give him the best quality dog food you can. Perhaps a recognised, named brand rather than the “generic.” Same goes for kibble - only the best. Your dog will feel the better for it.
Think about it for a moment - if you eat a nice steak and a few trimmings, don’t you feel better than if you’d stopped at the services on the motorway somewhere. Translate the same to feeding your dog. Give him the best dog food you can. Do your research and buy the type of food recommended for the particular breed and age of dog you own.
Some dogs - my old greyhound used to love this one - enjoy a spoonful of natural yoghurt as a little treat after their dinner. This can aid digestion and reduce the risk of flatulence.
By: Andy Machin About the Author:
Multi IP SEO Web Hosting
Apr
26
Dog mating is a tricky subject! The decision to breed dogs is something that must be well-planned and thoroughly thought of. There’s a lot that goes into it, and the responsibility that goes with dog mating must be considered by a new breeder. There are expenses from such an endeavor, and the care and safety of the new pups and their mother must be of utmost priority.
Ethics of dog mating
There are various reasons why dog owners decide to become dog mating owners. Most dog breeders, however, are sincere dog lovers who are interested in having more pups from their well-loved dogs. However, there are those who decide to breed dogs because of financial reasons, mainly profit. While it really isn’t bad to breed dogs with this in mind, the dog breeder must put the welfare of the dogs above any financial gain for the dog mating process. The dogs must not in any way be solely used for profit and enslaved to breeding duties without the corresponding proper love and attention that they need.
So, if you are not a dog lover and you are solely thinking of breeding dogs solely for profit, then you might want to reconsider and research for other methods of earning money. Moreover, dog welfare is protected in the first world countries, and if you are residing in one (even if you are not) be sure that the dogs are not neglected.
While there are ethical issues that are related to breeding and dog mating, there are also procedures that must be discussed to the new breeder.
The art of dog mating
Before you start mating dogs, it is advisable to pay your vet a visit. Have him examine your female dog (bitch) and get certification that she is good to mate. While you are the veterinarian, you might as well ask him for sound advice on how to start breeding your dog. He/she is in the best position to give you sound advice regarding this matter.
Second, get hold of a reliable breeder and make arrangements for a compatible dog for your bitch. Ask for certificates that will authenticate the claim(s) of the male dog’s breed as well as proof of the dog’s good health. Moreover, the mating process is best done in the place where the male dog resides rather than the reverse.
Third, your dog should mate only when she is biologically primed for mating - dog mating should always be performed at the most opportune moment. In addition, you should hold mating sessions for your dog during the 9th, 11th, and 13th days for it to be most productive. It is also recommended that the mating process between the bitch and the stud last for a good ten minutes. If the bitch refuses, aid in the mating process by trying to calm her down.
Finally, to check if the mating was successful you may visit the animal doctor a good three weeks after the mating of the dogs.
Breeding dogs is not as easy as it seems to be, especially if you are a beginner. If you are planning on doing cross-breeding then it is advised that you talk to the animal doctor and confirm if it is good to go into such given the breeds you want to mate.
By: Dr. Mark Clayson About the Author:
Mark Clayson is a professional, home business entrepreneur, mentor and speaker. Visit
Start Work at Home for more information on starting or developing a home business or his
official site to find out more.
Scar Removal
Apr
21
Over feeding and under feeding your dog poses a severe health risk for them and your wallet. Big or little, a five-pound swing in the weight of your dog represents a big change in their body mass and must be treated as a serious condition.
Your dog cannot control its appetite. He or she will eat until they are full; certain breeds (greyhounds, for example) don’t even have a mechanism to tell them when they are “full.” If you provide too much food for their body type, activity level, and age, they will store the extra calories in body fat. Too little food will cause their body to harvest the extra calories it needs from body fat if they are active and lean muscle if they are not.
If you cause your dog to become overweight - and, make no mistake, it is your fault, not theirs - the strain on their heart, immune system, and joints will result in additional veterinary bills and eventual loss of companionship from their early demise. To combat the curse of the obese canine, you must track their body weight, exercise, and food intake compulsively.
Start by developing a baseline: record your dog’s weight and your estimate of their overall “fitness” at least once a week, the weight and type of food they eat every day, and an honest daily assessment of exercise. Unless your vet has previously diagnosed an unhealthy condition in your dog, your estimate of your dog’s overall health is just as good as a professional opinion. If you have questions about what your dog should look like, many kennel clubs maintain online galleries of specific breeds that can aid your eye.
Regardless of your dog’s condition, make a firm commitment to dramatically increasing the exercise they get. Exercise is good for their heart and lungs and lets them develop strong, lean muscles. Dogs who receive plenty of exercise burn off a lot of nervous energy, making them better-behaved, and the extra exercise can help you shed a few extra pounds, too!
If you feel your dog is underweight, slightly increase the quantity of food they receive and immediately give them a dramatic increase in opportunities for exercise. The exercise will stimulate their appetite, add body mass as lean muscle, strengthen their joints, and teach their body to use more of the calories in the food they eat.
Overweight dogs can easily be stressed by too much change in their daily routine. Gradually decreasing their caloric intake and increasing their exercise will prevent injuries to joints and fragile bone structures. Longer periods of exercise at a moderate level are preferable to short periods of strenuous exercise in an overweight dog, so take them on a long daily walk instead of jogging them. As their heart and lungs gain increased capacity, the fat will melt off their bodies and new, lean muscle will appear to protect their joints.
Every dog needs plenty of cool, clean water throughout the day, but especially when going to higher activity levels and while exercising. Don’t be surprised if they make many trips to the water bowl for long slurps of water; much of the water they drink evaporates off their tongue while panting so the extra water helps them regulate body temperature.
Lastly, reserve treats for special occasions and training rewards. Many treats are just empty calories that may interfere with the way they use the quality food you provide in their bowl. Make sure the treats you do give them are as good or of better quality than their normal food. You can also break larger treats into smaller pieces and give them out one at a time; your dog would rather you treat him five times with a bite-sized chunk than one time with a whole biscuit.
Remember, you hold the life and health of your dog in your hands. You must be the trainer, dietician, pack leader, and security blanket. If you exercise self-control for your dog, you will have a healthy companion for a long time.
By: Brock Lorber About the Author:
Brock Lorber — investor, aviation coach, author, and dog lover — provides helpful tips for the care,
feeding, and
training of your dog.
You can subscribe to his newsletter at his website, MyOtherKids.com.
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Apr
11
There are 5 different types of dog worms (internal parasites), which your dog can fall prey to. These are: heartworm, hookworm, roundworm, tapeworm and whipworm. As a dog owner, I recommend that you educate yourself on these worms in order to be able to recognize the symptoms if they should become evident in your dog.
Early worm detection is important because each type of dog worm requires a different form of treatment. You should also be aware of the fact that roundworm and hookworm are zoonotic, which means that these worms can be transmitted to humans. Some worm infestations may show little to no symptoms, whereas others can demonstrate severe symptoms, such as vomiting, diarrhea and weight loss. Some dog worms can be seen by the naked eye while some cannot, therefore it is a good idea to ask your vet to perform a stool test for dog worms once a year.
Below you can find a list of common telltale symptoms of dog worm infestation, but keep in mind that these symptoms can also be a sign of a more serious problem. Either way, always consult a veterinarian whenever your dog is not “his usual self.”
Dull coat Weight loss Appetite loss Pot-bellied appearance Coughing Low energy level Diarrhea Vomiting
ROUNDWORMS (Toxocara canis, Toxascaris leonina)
There are two types of Roundworm: Toxocara canis and Toxascaris leonine. This is the most common type of dog worm, which affects the intestines and causes a pot-bellied appearance, mostly in puppies. There are a few ways puppies can become infected. Puppies are often infected before birth through the mother’s uterus or through her milk. Puppies can also contract these worms through the ingestion of an infected animal (such as a rodent) or infected soil. Roundworm eggs can live in soil for many years. Once a puppy has ingested the infected soil, the eggs will hatch in his intestines, allowing the worms to live there and grow to adulthood. These adults will then produce more eggs.
Roundworms may be found in your dog’s stool or vomit. They can grow to about 7 inches in length and have a spaghetti-like appearance. If this type of infestation is not detected early and is allowed a chance to develop, a buildup of worms in the intestines can cause an obstruction which may result in death. The symptoms of a severe infestation are: pot-belly appearance, diarrhea, vomiting, dull coat and weight loss.
Puppies should be dewormed every 2 weeks between 2 and 12 weeks of age, then monthly until he is 6 months old. Once your puppy has reached 6 months of age, he is less susceptible to contracting these worms but should continue yearly exams (or more often if considered high-risk).
Because Roundworm can be transmitted to humans, it is important to promote good hygiene, such as washing your hands regularly. Transmission of this dog worm to humans is usually through infected soil, which may be in your backyard or front lawn. Because the eggs are sticky and can easily adhere to hands or clothing, make sure children (and adults) wash their hands after playing outside (especially at a park or playground), after playing with the dog and before it’s time to eat.
Treatment generally involves administering oral medication (dewormer) with follow-up fecal exams and a monthly heartworm medication. Try 1-800-PetMeds - America’s Pet Health Resource
Prevent your dog from contracting roundworms by cleaning up fecal matter from the backyard as often as possible. Also, administering a heartworm medication such as HeartGard - Prescription Heartworm medication for Dogs & Cats is a good preventive. Do not mix wormers and consult your vet before giving your dog any medication. And last, but not least, always remember annual exams.
HOOKWORMS (Ancylostoma caninium)
Like Roundworm, Hookworm harbors in the intestines and can also be transmitted to humans. Hookworms can affect a dog at any age. It is a small, thin worm that hooks on to the intestinal wall and sucks the blood from its victim, which cause anemia and perhaps death. Due to their sharp teeth, they also cause bleeding in the intestines. Hookworms are not visible by the naked eye, therefore should be diagnosed by a vet. As with roundworm, hookworms also live and grow to adulthood in the intestines. They can also be transmitted to pups while in the mother’s uterus or through her breast milk. A dog infected with hookworm would experience bloody stool, anemia, weight loss, pale gums, diarrhea and low energy level. Skin irritation can be a sign of a severe infestation.
Hookworms can be transmitted to humans by penetration of the skin, making it is possible for people to become infected simply by walking barefoot on infected soil. Hookworms, when transmitted to humans, can cause bleeding in the intestines along with abdominal pain and diarrhea.
Treatment usually consists of oral medications (dewormer), follow-up fecal exams, intravenous therapy and, if necessary, a blood transfusion. Hookworm infestation can kill your pup before the worm is ever detected. This is why it is so important to keep up with veterinary visits and exams.
TAPEWORMS (Dipylidium caninum)
The tapeworm gets its name from its long, flat, tape-like appearance. It is yet another parasite that affects the intestines, and like the roundworm, can be seen by the naked eye. Broke pieces of this dog worm would be found in the dog’s fecal matter, which give it a rice-like appearance. These pieces of worm, although broken, can be found (still moving) around the dog’s anus, in his stool or in his bed. Common symptoms of severe tapeworm infestation are abdominal pain, nervousness, severe itching around the anus, vomiting and weight loss.
Transmission to dogs is often caused by the ingestion of infected fleas. Although, humans are susceptible to being infected, a dog cannot transmit the dog worm to a human directly.
Regular over-the-counter deworming medication is not effective in eliminating this type of dog worm. A prescription dewormer is administered orally or by injection (praziquantel or epsiprantel). Consult your vet. Try 1-800-PetMeds - America’s Pet Health Resource
WHIPWORMS (Trichuris vulpis)
Whipworms are long, thin (whip-shaped) dog worms that live in the dog’s colon and are not visible by the naked eye. They attach themselves to the intestinal walls and feed off of them which, in turn, causes intestinal bleeding. Common symptoms of whipworm infestation are anemia, weight loss, flatulence, diarrhea with blood or mucus in the stool and lack of energy.
Although whipworms are the most difficult to eliminate among the families of dog worms, there is effective treatment available.
Whipworm is most effectively treated with fenbendazole (panacur), but febantel can also be used. Prescription medications are usually more effective. The treatment lasts for up to 5 days and is repeated after 3 weeks. After this treatment is finished, consult your vet about recommending a heartworm medication (containing milbemycin oxime) as a prophylactic to future infestation. Try 1-800-PetMeds - America’s Pet Health Resource
Along with administering heartworm medication regularly, here are other ways to prevent reinfection:
Remove feces from backyard every few days Clean yard with a safe cleaning agent (which kills worms) Have feces tested every 6 months (more often if previously infected)
HEARTWORMS (Dirofilaria immitis)
Heartworm, although highly preventable, has the potential to be fatal, if contracted and left untreated.
Heartworm is spread by mosquitoes, mostly during the warm months when mosquitoes are most active. The mosquito becomes infected from biting dogs that carry the disease. These dog worms destroy the muscle and tissue of the heart, which can cause congestive heart failure and result in death. At this advanced stage, your dog would experience the typical signs of worms, such as pot-belly, coughing, lack of energy and dull coat.
Unfortunately, there are no symptoms of this disease until it has progressed to an advanced stage. For this reason, it is important to start your dog on a heartworm preventative such as HeartGard - Prescription Heartworm medication for Dogs & Cats at 6 months of age (after the first stage deworming process is complete. Check with your vet). Prevention is the best medicine.
General guidelines for dog worm prevention
When walking your dog in a park, picking up his feces as a standard practice not only prevents soil contamination, but also prevents the spread of many other dog diseases. Regular visits to the vet and stool testing is a great way to prevent dog worms, as well as other illnesses. Twice-yearly worm testing is recommended. Make sure your dog is tested for worms before starting a heartworm preventative. High-risk dogs should be screened more often (check with your vet). Flea control is important because fleas are responsible for the spread of tapeworms. Most puppies find feces quite appetizing. Keep your dog away from feces: his own as well as others. This is the most common form of worm infestation. When cleaning your dog’s area, such as his bed or crate, spray it with a strong saltwater solution and let dry. This aids in the prevention of worms. Before traveling with your dog to obscure destinations, consult your vet of the potential risks to your dog. Avoid exposing your dog to stray animals, birds and dead rodents, which often harbor immature tapeworms that can mature inside your dog. Contact your vet if your dog displays any symptoms after receiving worm medication.
This information is NOT intended to replace the advice of a veterinarian, dog trainer or pet care professional.
By: Nancy Settecasi
About the Author:
Nancy Settecasi, Owner of Happy K-9 Dog Care Proud owner of Cookie and Skippy, Cocker Spaniels, Dog Lover
http://www.happyk-9.com
Internet Phone
Apr
10
VOMITING
If a dog is being sick repeatedly, it could well be just one symptom of any number of different illnesses. If a dog is being sick it may be something as simple as an upset stomach, or it could be an indication of much more serious problems such as poisoning, kidney problems or an allergic reaction to drug treatment.
If the dog is sick once and appears to be perfectly well in other ways, it may simply be something that it scavenged which has caused the dog to vomit. Often dogs will deliberately make themselves sick, usually by eating grass [a natural emetic] which will prompt the elimination of bile.
Obviously if the dog is being sick, plus showing other signs of being unwell, a trip to the Vet is needed. With common sense and by taking the right precautions, plus guidance from your vet you should be able to reduce substantially any risk to your dog from illness or disease.
Although any ailment or illness should be checked with your Vet, it is a good idea to have a simple first Aid kit, for use in the case of minor ailments. The kit should contain bandages, Veterinary wound powder [an antiseptic powder for cuts or bites] and liquid paraffin [for aiding the digestive system if your dog is constipated.]
ACUTE GASTRIC DILATION
This is an extremely serious condition, which if left untreated can result in death within a few hours of onset. It tends to be a condition more commonly associated with the larger, deeper chested breeds and can occur shortly after the dog has eaten due to excess gas production or gas which is unable to escape. This causes distension of the stomach which in turn causes impaired blood flow.
The dog will show signs of distress, salivate profusely, show an enlarged abdomen and attempt to be sick. Left untreated, the dog will go into shock and ultimately collapse and die.
URGENT Veterinary help is required.
A further complication is when the stomach then rotates and twists which usually requires emergency surgery. Although the cause of gastric dilation is not completely understood, there are one or two things you can do to keep it from recurring. To reduce the amount of air intake when a dog is feeding, place the bowl in a feeding stand at shoulder height to the dog. Instead of feeding the dog twice a day feed three or four smaller meals. Restrict the amount of water the dog takes in at any one time-obviously the dog has to drink but do not let him take in copious amounts all at one go.
By: Kathy Davison About the Author:
Eviction Lawyer
Apr
9
When you dog gives birth it can be a wonderful time, but there are also lots of worries that go with it. Many people find that one of the worst parts of a dog giving birth is unless you know what to look for, the owner has no idea when the birth will happen. In this article there are five clear ways to know when your dog will give birth.
Your dog may exhibit some or all of the following sings when in labor. Often there is a ten-fifteen minute gap between puppies being born.
Temperature drop Your dogs temperature may drop to around 97-98 degrees approximately, around 24 hours before giving birth. This is normal, and a good sign that your dog is going into labor so you can get prepared early! If your dog does not begin labor within a day of the temperature drop, you should contact your local vet. You can check your dogs temperature using a dog thermometer. Your dog refuses to eat Most bitches will refuse to eat before they go into labor, which obviously isn’t normal for dogs. This can be another good early warning sign. Finding a den A natural reaction of most female dogs is to try and find a den or hideaway where they can give birth. A very common place is under your bed, as the dog feels safe and enclosed there. If possible, find a comfortable place beforehand where the birth can take place. Shivering and sickness Another dog labor symptom is when the dog begins to shiver and even vomit. This is completely normal, and the best thing you can do is make sure there is fresh water available at all times. Wanting you near The dog is likely to stare at you and want you near to her at all times. Like number three, this is a comfort thing.
Finally, go by your gut instinct! If your dog is acting strangely or differently, it is probably trying to tell you something.
Remember that dog pregnancies are quite short, only around 63 days, so make sure you are prepared in dog time. These are just some of the dog labor symptoms, and although common, it is not unheard of for labor to start almost unannounced.
By: Richard Cross Terris About the Author:
Richard Cross is owner and webmaster of Dogsandyou.co.uk [http://dogsandyou.co.uk/]. To make sure your dog has the least stressful labor, visit the Dog Labor Products page [http://dogsandyou.co.uk/dog-births/].
Student Loan Consolidation
Apr
9
Many pet owners ask the question “Can I feed my pet table scraps?” They confuse a complete homemade dog food diet with table scraps. Although many holistic veterinarians generally favor table scraps they urge you to make sure they are nutritionally wholesome and they are plain. A dog’s digestive tract is geared for simpler food than we eat.
So you can feed your dog table scraps but first try sharing a little of what you are having each day with your pet, along with the food you are already feeding them. This will give them a little variety and help you determine if you want to switch to a totally homemade diet. Always decrease the volume of commercial food you feed by the amount of table scraps you are adding to their diet. Once you determine if you want to switch over to a total homemade diet for your dog then you should learn as much as you can about proper nutritional levels.
But for now, if you want to start adding some natural food to your pet’s diet these are a few things to be aware of:
5 Foods to Avoid:
1.) Onions are toxic to dogs. No onions whatsoever.
2.) Left over fat and remnants. No Bacon or bacon grease. There are high levels of nitrates in bacon and the high heat used to cook bacon creates many other harmful compounds.
3.) Stay away from rich foods like ham, sauces, and limit the cheese you feed your dog.
4.) No spicy, salty or fried foods. No spicy chili, pepperoni or luncheon meats.
5.) NO sweets, cookies or cakes. Definitely NO CHOCOLATE. Certain compounds in chocolate like theobromine and caffeine are toxic to dogs and cause vomiting, excessive urination, hyperactivity, fast breathing, weakness and seizures.
6 Foods You Can Feed Your Dog:
1.) Almost all vegetables are good, especially carrots and anything in the broccoli family, green beans, alfalfa sprouts, and leafy greens. Dogs like to chew on raw carrots and that helps to keep down the tartar on their teeth. Asparagus is also good and sometimes dogs will eat these like they are treats. You can add some potatoes to their diet and lentils and split peas are an excellent choice.
2.) Fruits are very healthy. Try different types and see which ones your pets like. AVOID GRAPES. Although grapes may not be toxic to all dogs there is no definitive information to enable us to tell which dogs will get sick and die after eating grapes.
Vegetables and fruits can be pureed in a blender then let them sit a day or two before feeding.
3.) Pasta is O.K. but WITHOUT the spices and tomato sauces.
4.) A little bit of good olive oil is O.K. It’s actually good for your dog’s skin.
5.) Low-fat, plain yogurt. You can give 1 tablespoon per twenty-five pounds of weight. You can feed it two to five times a week. Just like for us yogurt has beneficial bacteria known as acidophilis.
6.) Eggs are an excellent source of protein. You can add an egg or egg yolk twice week for each 25 pounds of weight. Dog’s seem to like lightly scrambled eggs added to their meal.
Remember that all animals are individuals, with individual tastes and sensitivities. Make sure that what you are feeding your pet is not causing allergic reactions. Always check with your veterinarian before adding table scraps to your pets diet.
By: C. J. Burke About the Author:
For more ways to keep your pet healthy by feeding the right foods and using alternative remedies please
Click Here
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Apr
6
Having a pet dog is one great joy that many people share. Dogs make great guards and companions to have at home. But being a dog owner is great responsibility. You have to provide the dog a lot of things, food, shelter, exercise, toys, among many others. One of the most dreaded responsibilities of a dog owner is potty training.
However, this is not really a difficult ordeal with the various techniques invented by pet owners in teaching dogs how to eliminate properly. One great, time-tested technique is paper training.
Here are some tips for paper training a dog:
1. Spread newspapers over your dog’s living space. Use old newspapers - you would not want to soil papers you have not even read yet. Watch the dog carefully and as soon as you notice it to whimper, sniffing the ground and running in circles, bring the dog immediately the spot where you want it to do its business. When the dog goes potty in the right newspaper-covered spot, praise it lavishly, before removing the soiled paper.
2. Leave a small piece of soiled paper on the right spot to potty to guide the dog where the “toilet” area is.
3. When the dog makes accidents, simply wash the area with warm water and rinse with diluted vinegar to kill the odor the dog has left.
4. Soon enough, the dog would get used to the idea of using the newspaper and the spot to go potty. As the dog becomes consistent, gradually reduce the area of the newspaper, making sure that it still goes to that spot where it is supposed to.
5. When a good level of consistency is achieved, let the dog roam around the house and observe it during the times it is supposed to go potty. If you see the dog whining and sniffing at a certain point, bring it immediately back to its potty spot.
6. Use terms for going potty consistently. Do not confuse the dog by saying different phrases to refer to elimination. Eventually, the dog would learn the terms as if they were commands to do its business in the spot you assigned it to.
7. Avoid feeding or letting the dog drink before it sleeps. This will help you and the dog avoid accidents during a time when it is difficult to move to its potty spot.
8. Always praise the dog when it goes potty on the right spot. Have treats available to give the dog rewards when it has done the right thing quite well.
9. Do not punish the dog extremely, as this would only teach it to avoid you. If you would scold do the dog, do it with a light, yet firm and commanding tone.
10. Keep the dog’s sleeping area very clean and fresh-smelling. Keep it also far away from its potty spot, but not too far that the dog would not be able to reach it in time to go potty.
Potty training a dog is not really a difficult ordeal with these tips in mind. With some degree of patience and determination, you could teach your dog to eliminate at the right place using paper training. Soon enough your dog will learn where to do it and be the good dog you have always wanted it to be.
By: Tim Lee About the Author:
Free Article Content
Apr
6
Like human cultures/ethnicities, dog breeds are stereotyped. With dogs, we know how stereotypes work - a certain behavior is witnessed as occurring by a specific breed and then that becomes the stereotype for that breed. If enough of a stereotype is promoted, then the word spreads - positive or negative and fact or fiction.
I have trained many beautiful, gentle pit bulls, and many aggressive Yorkies. I understand the difference between the two and am in no way discounting the horror of being attached by a dog. Of the two, I agree, a Yorkie would be the dog-attack of choice.
Yorkies, however, can be very difficult to housebreak. They’re one of the toughest breeds to get it or to get it quickly. This certainly doesn’t apply to every Yorkie. It does apply to enough that it has become a stereotype.
Standard Poodles and Labrador Retrievers don’t typically mature until they are 1.5 - 2 years of age. All German Shepherds will kill cats. All Great Danes are gentle. All Golden Retrievers love water. Stereotypes can be positive or negative or neither.
Stereotype or fact? That becomes the question. Stereotypes are there for a reason and based on some truth. It’s very different to judge a dog breed based on whether or not they’re easy to housebreak versus one that is considered dangerous and should be banned. Both are stereotypes, one is a consideration and the other can be a tragic mistake.
Many years ago on a Sociology test, the teacher had a series of true/false questions such as: All Irish people have bad tempers…All Black people have rhythm…etc. These were actual test questions because he wanted to see if we had really learned anything in his class. All of the answers to the stereotypes were, of course, false.
Unfortunately, if most people were given a test based on the stereotype of dog breeds, they would fail. Not all breeds are all one way any more than a specific culture of people are. It is up to us to think for ourselves and to make decisions on what breed is right for us based on truth and the particular animal we are considering. No breed should be banned.
Be responsible when looking for a dog and choose the right breed for you. Don’t allow the elimination of any breed based on stereotype. Every dog, regardless of breed, should be socialized, trained, and loved!
By: Gayle Cousineau About the Author:
Auto Parts
Apr
4
1. When your dog does nip be sure to stop playing with him immediately. Let him know that it hurt by saying “ouch”. Then you can tell him, “bad dog, no bite”. It is important to be consistent when you discipline him, so make sure you tell him the same thing each time.
2. Be sure and teach your dog that you are not the toy. Always replace your hand with a toy and let him know that he is suppose to play with it rather than you!
3. Another tip is to tell him to sit immediately after he has nipped you. Take your finger and tap on his nose and say “no bite” in a stern voice. The tap is not meant to hurt him….its just to let him know this is not proper behavior. Your tone of voice is just as important as the tap on the nose. If you were his real mom… it would kinda be like a verbal growl! After a while all you will have to do is raise your finger and he will know to stop.
4. Dog nipping, unfortunately, is encouraged during game playing… when the dog is jumping up to get something. So don’t play games that include waving your hands, tug of war or asking him to jump up. Playing fetch and retrieve games is fine as long as your dog knows to drop the toy… that way he is not fighting over the toy with you.
5. Most importantly, be consistent. Dogs don’t understand the “sometimes” word. They do understand the word no! Stay consistent… don’t confuse him.
Are you frustrated by your disobeying dog nipping at you and jumping on every guest? Or do you have a new dog but don’t know where to begin with potty and obedience training?
By: Candice Lee About the Author:
Accident Lawyers
Apr
3
This brief guide is intended to help you identify dog seizure symptoms so that you can save your dog’s life in case of emergency.
A seizure can be defined as the body experiencing muscle contractions and shaking uncontrollably and aggressively. The cause of seizures is often unknown. Your best defense is to be able to recognize the dog seizure symptoms listed below. By knowing your dog well, you should be able to identify normal and abnormal behavior.
4 Common Dog Seizure Symptoms
When something in the brain triggers the neurological system, a dog will experience a seizure, which is a disorder of the brain. The seizure can last anywhere from a few moments to several minutes. Viruses or diseases do not cause seizures. Dog seizures often occur because of epilepsy. Here are some symptoms that are common to dog seizures. Your dog may show one or more of the following symptoms:
1. Your dog starts to defecate, urinate or salivate uncontrollably.
2. Your dog starts to hallucinate.
3. Your dog starts to bark excessively and gnaw at his limbs or paws.
4. Your dog no longer responds to your commands.
5. Your dog suffers from involuntary muscle contractions, whether isolated or affecting his entire body.
Is your dog in danger during a seizure? He should be fine as long as he is lying on the ground. Even though his body is having convulsions, his tongue will not block his airway so he will be able to breathe. Don’t bother putting your hand down his throat to try and clear his airway. The dog could inadvertently bite you if you do.
What should you do? Call your local vet immediately and don’t try to diagnose the problem by yourself. Your dog is in need of immediate attention from a veterinarian who knows how to deal with seizures. By recognizing dog seizure symptoms, you can help save your dog’s life, but you still need a vet to take care of him as soon as possible.
Try to have phone numbers for more than one vet if you can. Identify one or two local emergency animal care centers in your area and keep these numbers handy. You can post these numbers next to your veterinarian’s phone number and address or stick them on the fridge door. If you have some free time, it’s always a good idea to drive to the local animal hospital so that you know how to get there in case of emergencies or if your dog experiences a seizure.
Once you take your dog to the veterinarian, he or she will normally prescribe some medication to help keep your dog relaxed and stable. The prescribed treatment may last anywhere from one or two weeks to the rest of your dog’s life. This type of medication normally needs to be taken regularly and most veterinarians will avoid medicating a dog for life unless he experiences seizures on a regular basis.
By: Dani Waser About the Author:
If you enjoyed this article and if you want to learn more about your dog’s health, then visit Dani’ blog ==>
dog health problems.
Tip: If you would like to learn how to deal with minor dog health problems BEFORE they become major ones, check out my review about the best dog health book on the Internet and discover how you could save a lot of money on vet bills.
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Does your pet have dog ear infection? How can you tell?
Dog ear infection is a common health condition in dogs. It is estimated that at least 20% of the dog population has this condition. Its other name is otitis externa due to the fact that the infection often occurs in the outer ear canal.
Pet guardians sometimes wonder if their dog has a ear problem. They see the dog scratches his ears and shakes its head vigorously. Yet, they do not find any ear debris upon examining their pet’s ears.
That’s right. Sometimes, an infected dog’s ear appears clean without dirt or excessive ear discharge. However, the ear is likely to have a foul odor. This is a sign of ear infection.
Some pets do not display any symptoms of a ear infection. The ear problem was only detected during a regular check-up at the veterinary. The veterinarian probably detected the infection in its early stage, before physical symptoms became apparent to the pet guardians.
Also, our dogs have different threshold for pain and discomfort. Some dogs whine at the slightest discomfort; whilst others remain resilient even when they are in pain.
In fact, a dog’s smelly ear may be the first thing you notice when the ear canal is infected.
The foul odor from the ear may indicate a yeast or bacteria infection. Dog ear infection can be both itchy and painful for your pet.
A yeast infection usually produces brown or black ear discharge whilst a bacteria infection has a yellow ear discharge.
Malassezia Pachydermatis is the yeast found most frequently in association with ear infections. It can cause severe ear and skin infections.
Both yeast and bacteria thrive in the warm, dark and moist environment of the ear canal. These micro organisms multiply quickly when there is excess moisture, or when ear wax build up within the ear canal, resulting in a ear infection.
Dog ear infection is curable when diagnosed correctly and treated early. Do not leave an outer ear infection untreated. The infection could spread to the middle ear and inner ear. This could lead to irreversible damage to the ear drum, equilibrium structure and nerve centre in the ear.
Here is a simple tip to keep your dog’s ears in the pink of health.
To prevent dog ear infection, make sure your dog’s ears are clean and dry.
Clean your pet’s external ear canal 1-2 times per week. Use a ear cleaning solution that contains powerful anti-bacteria and anti-fungi properties. It should help change the pH in your pet’s ear to discourage the overgrowth of yeast and bacteria.
There is a variety of ear cleaning products you can use to prevent a dog ear infection. They are available through your veterinarian, pet supply store, or you can use natural home remedy to keep your dog’s ears healthy.
Select a ear cleaning solution that works for your dog, is easy for you to use, so that you and your pet will agree to keep to the ear cleaning routine.
Go ahead, sniff your pet’s ears for the tell tale sign of a dog ear infection.
By: Maly Green About the Author:
Student Loan Consolidation
Apr
3
What Causes Dogs Leaking Urine or Urinating on The Floor?
There are many different causes for a dog that is leaking or urinating uncontrollably, it is often found in puppies or dog at an early age due to their bladders not developing yet, but it may also be due to bladder valves not working properly, inflamed bladder, bladder infections, or that the bladder has not formed properly since an early age. All these and more are great possibilities for leaking urine and uncontrollable urinating.
In most cases a course of antibiotics will help cure the problem but for many other of the conditions further testing and examinations will be needed to find the problem. Although to begin with your vet will probably ask you a series of questions to try and narrow down the possibilities and then the correct test will be chosen from your answers.
what your vet may say or do
As the vets first job in determining why your dog is urinating more or uncontrollably a series of questions similar to the one below will be asked and then the appropriate testing if needed will be chosen from noting down your answers.
o Is the dog urinating outside more than normal, less than normal, or about the same amount?
o Does urine leak out when your dog is active or only when they are resting?
o Does the pee look and smell the same as normal?
o When the dog urinates outdoors do they produce more than normal, less than normal, or about the same amount?
o Does your dog strain to urinate or is it like normal?
o Is the dog drinking more than normal, less than normal, or about the same amount?
o If your dog is female has it been spayed (sterilised) and if so when?
o How old is the dog?
o How long has the problem been visible?
o Is the dog eating more than normal, less than normal, or about the same amount?
From these questions a basic idea of what tests to do next will be presented and the urine will be tested to fully confirm the condition, and then proceed to fully check the other parts of the dog for any other abnormalities paying special attention to the urinary tract and how the bladder and kidneys feel.
By: John M Williams About the Author:
Gifts for Toddlers
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1
Bringing a second dog home requires a lot of thought. It means a complete change in your “normal” family routine. It matters not whether the new dog is a puppy or an adult.
There are many things to consider before you bring the new pet home.
It is not just a matter of bringing the new dog home and you all will live happily ever after (though that can be a remote possibility.)
You need to take time to think this new undertaking through and mull over these questions:
Are you living on a tight budget? A second dog will require annual vet visits, will need food, toys, perhaps a new crate and possible training classes.
A second dog requires “time.” Do you have extra time to play, for walks, time to groom your pet, time for feeding, training and extra clean up?
Does your current dog have any behavioral problems? A
new dog might not be able to teach your old dog to stop misbehaving. You could end up with two dogs each with bad behaviors, making matters worse.
Do you have the patience to adhere to “dog pack’ rules? Even though you are the LEADER, two dogs are a pack and one or the other will become the second leader. If it’s the new dog, can you adjust to following the rules? The leader dog gets to be “first” in all things and you cannot change that. Trying to change what is natural dog behavior will cause conflict and “big trouble.”
Are you prepared for the resident dog to start misbehaving, such as using the house as a potty place, chewing things and just being destructive in general? The newcomer may upset your pet.
Is your current dog friendly with other dogs and people? If your resident dog is a “bully,” your chances of finding a “friend” for him/her are slim. Training classes for your current dog maybe the answer before you plunge into getting another dog.
How is the stress level in your household? Have you moved, added a new family member or has anything else happened to upset the normal routine of the household? Dogs stress out during changes in their routine. Times of stress are not a good time to bring home a new dog.
Are you happy with your dog right now? A second dog could bring changes in your dog’s personality. The two dogs could really bond
and might prefer being together, ignoring you, except for food and treats. Are you ready to accept that?
Read these questions a few times and answer them truthfully. Being truthful will help eliminate you making a mistake.
Some dogs really don’t want a “companion,” they are as happy as a clam being the “only dog.”
The real question here is “is it you that wants a new dog?”
Once you have made up your mind and truly feel that another dog will be an added benefit to your household. There are a few more things to consider such as: puppy, young adult or an older dog. That will depend on your resident dog.
Puppies are probably easier to introduce to your current dog, as a puppy doesn’t appear as an intruder, only as a pest.
If you decide on a puppy, please keep this in mind. Puppies do not realize they are supposed to behave in a certain way until they are about 4 months old.
Until they are old enough to know all this “dog stuff,” it will be up to you to protect the puppy from the older dog and protect the older dog from the puppy.
The puppy will drive the older dog crazy at times. Puppies want to play; older dogs will play for a little while then want to stop.
It is up to you to give your older pet, free time away from “fluff and stuff.”
Do not under any circumstances leave the puppy and older dog alone without supervision.
Always put the puppy in its crate or put your resident dog in a safe room if you are leaving the house or cannot supervise.
The older dog could unintentionally injure the puppy, if the puppy pesters the older dog too much.
Adding a young adult dog or an older dog to your household requires a lot more tact along with patience and planning. You are going to need help with this one.
Step number one; the dogs will have to meet on neutral ground. To do this you will need help of a friend or a relative (not a member of your household.)
The dogs need to meet in a place your dog has never been, that will be the neutral territory. It can be a park, a neighbor’s yard, or if all else fails a parking lot.
Both dogs need to be on a leash and introduced casually. Allow them to do all the “doggy things,” such as smelling each other, their stance may be rigid, but for the first meeting that is okay. However, if you hear growling or see lip curling, calmly move them apart.
Remain calm and do not be nervous, talk to the dogs in a “happy voice.”
After a few minutes try to introduce them again, but do not let them get too close together.
If the growling and lip curling happens again it is a good bet that these two will not ever be friends.
Whatever you do, do not try to force a friendship. You will only be looking for a great deal of trouble when you get them home.
Dogs will fight and if they do not like each other, it can be disastrous for you and the dogs.
In looking for a new dog (not a puppy) try to find a dog whose personality matches that of your dog. If your dog is outgoing and friendly, find one that is equally so. If your dog is quiet and gentle, do not bring home a dog that is very active and playful, the match more than likely will not work.
Female dogs that have been the only dog in the house seem to have a harder time adjusting to a new “friend.”
Dogs that have been socialized and get along well with other dogs have an easier time relating to a new dog in the household.
One of the first rules in raising a puppy is “socialize, socialize and socialize” some more. If you have followed that rule, adding a new dog should be easier.
Once the introductions have been made and it is time to bring the two dogs home a good suggestion is “do not bring them home together” in the same car. Let the person who helped you with the introduction bring the new dog home.
It is a suggested procedure that when you have both dogs at home you keep their leashes on them. It will be easier for you to keep control if you need to by having a leash to grab on to.
If the new dog is close in age to your resident dog there is bound to be a bit of aggression going on.
You now have a “pack,” it will be necessary for the two dogs to decide which one is going to be second in charge (you are the real leader) and this decision may take some haggling.
Acceptable aggressive behavior should last for a few seconds (10 –20 seconds) and may consist of some growling, lip curling, snarling, snapping and possibly pinning one of the dogs down by the neck.
Unacceptable aggressive behavior would be biting to draw blood or any of the above behaviors that last more than a few seconds.
One of the dogs may exhibit submissive behavior and this is to be expected also. Barking like a puppy, rolling over on its back, tail between its legs, running away from the other dog are all acceptable submissive behaviors.
It may take the dogs a week or two to settle on who is the leader and while that is going on DO NOT let them alone together unsupervised.
Put the dogs in separate areas or in their crates, do not let them be together until you are certain they have settled their ranking and will get along.
The hardest thing for you will be following their decision especially if your first dog is no longer the “number one.”
The important thing here is that you abide by their decision no matter how hard it will be for you.
The number one dog gets the first treats, is first out the door, is first to be fed and so on.
Speaking of feeding, give each dog their own bowls and their own eating spot, do not let one steal food from the other.
Expect your first dog to go through some stress and probably some misbehavior patterns as this new addition will be upsetting to it and the dog will need to adjust.
It is up to you to expect these problems and act accordingly. Remember your dog did not ask for a new friend. It was your idea. As the old saying goes “you made your bed now lie in it.”
It may take a month or more for a routine to establish and peace to rein supreme once again in your household. If you keep the dogs apart when you are not home to supervise and you make the time they spend together “fun” they will soon become friends, maybe not “best friends,” but close enough to enjoy being together.
Do not forget that you are the LEADER, the boss supreme, and you run the show, and both dogs need to follow your orders first.
Do not beat, hit or otherwise use force to make a point, be patient, stern if necessary and most of all CONSISTENT in what you are asking of the dogs.
One last point: exercise is the secret to keeping your dogs too tired to argue with each other. Exercise relieves their stress (and maybe yours. too) and tired dogs behave better.
Good luck and remember to have FUN.
By: Audrey Frederick About the Author:
I am a mother of 6, grandmother of 9 and great grandmother of 4. Animals and their care has been a part of my life from early childhood. I have hand raised many kittens, puppies, squirrels and baby birds with great success. I am committed to educating people to understand that having a pet is a commitment and not just a “fly-by-night” endeavor. Having a pet means caring and loving it for its lifetime and not just for a time that suits your wim. For more information on the care and nurturing of cats and dogs please see my website at
http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com
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